Month: August 2015

Antibes – Riding the Green Demon

A low, dark doorway in an Antibes alley opens onto a set of winding stairs that spiral down into a barrel-shaped room. Small tables are crammed together next to overflowing hat racks. Visitors chatter contentedly as the cave matron slices through the crowd, doling out silver, spigotted reservoirs. This is where you go to sample the green demon. Absinthe! We’d…

Dranks on a Plane

The guy in the seat next to me leans in. Well, the seat next to the seat next to me. He’s leaning real hard. Must be important, I think. He looks like Shaggy from those Scooby-Doo cartoons. Tossled blonde hair, scruffy facial hair, skinny surfer body. Laconic, slightly glazed eyes that seem to be saying, “fuck it, man, whatever.” “What’re…

Stresa – On a Magic Gondola Ride

Stresa had a gondola, a rickety, steel contraption, dark green, existing solely to carry pale European tourists from the shoreline of Lake Maggiore to the peak of mount whatever. Looking back, I can only marvel that we ever discovered the damn thing. Stresa was not a particularly big town and only moderately touristy. Plenty of appealing restaurants with open-air seating…